The Origins of the Kona Coffee Bean

      The first coffee plants were brought to Hawaii from Brazil in the early 1800s by the governor of Oahu and initially planted on that island. Coffee plants were later introduced to other regions of Hawaii and eventually to the now famous Kona coast. Traditional Kona coffee farms are typically less than 5 acres in size, family owned and passed down from generation to generation. The sloping terrain at the base of two volcanoes require traditional farming techniques requiring the coffee “cherry” to be picked by hand over a harvesting season which lasts from July until January depending on the elevation of the farm. To this day, the industry continues to be largely made up of independent small growers with coffee from each of the private label brands having their own nuances and character based upon multiple factors. These include the farming and roasting techniques employed by the grower as well as location of the farm within the Kona coffee belt.

      The Hawaii Department of Agriculture documents Kona coffee sales contribute $44 million to the Hawaiian economy ranking 4th in the amount of land devoted to a single cash crop. Approximately 800 individual coffee farms within the Kona Coffee Belt comprise the largest coffee growing region in Hawaii which supplies 1% of the coffee produced in the world. The business environment can be hostile and is highly competitive, with the industry sensitive to economic downturns, pests, weather, and brand mislabeling.

      Despite this competitive environment, throughout our history, Kona coffee farmers have had to collaborate and cooperate with their neighbors to battle market challenges, which impact their daily operations and decrease already slim margins. The specific quality and taste of Kona coffee comes from the unique growing location and a labor-intensive process that limits production and supply resulting in Kona coffee’s high price point. This high price point in the world of coffee makes the industry sensitive to economic downturns. The Great Depression of the 1930’s crippled the Kona coffee market almost to the point of no return. However, through the resiliency and collaboration of the farmers, who worked in co-ops to save on input costs from volume discounts for bulk purchases and processing/marketing costs, the industry was brought back to life. Present day credit unions formed by state and local growers’ association continue to assist farmers with financing to maintain operations during the record high inflation we are now facing in the United States.

      Farmers continue to face Mother Nature’s challenges in the form of coffee borer beetles (Hypothenemus hampei aka CBB) and the newest threat, coffee leaf rust (Hemileia vastatrix) or CLR, which diminish yield and can kill the entire tree if left untreated. Hemileia vastatrix is the same pathogen that decimated the European coffee industry in the 1600s, when Dutch coffee transporters brought coffee to Europe from their colonial plantations in Ceylon (now Sri Lanka), Java and Sumatra. The fungal infection, detected too late, grew out of control and rendered the plantations of the region unrecoverable. Ceylon eventually pivoted from coffee production to tea, becoming a top world producer. The coffee leaf rust (CLR) penetrated the Hawaiian coffee farms in June of 2020 and was first detected on the Big Island (Island of Hawaii) in October of 2020. Once detected it spread from farm to farm despite the spraying of systemic fungicides and harvesting process changes recommended by the US Dept of Agriculture and implemented by farmers. Many farms have begun replanting diseased trees with new rust resistant grafted trees, recognizing they will face a drop in yield for the next 3 years as the rust resistant trees grow to maturity.

      Variable weather patterns over the Hawaiian Islands can impact the coffee crop. Due to its higher elevation, the Kona Coffee belt enjoys daily afternoon rain that are often enough to irrigate the farms’ coffee crops without supplemental water. However, the delicate rain cycle can quickly be destabilized by volcanic eruptions from volcanoes to the south of the Big Island as evidenced by the active eruption of Kilauea volcano over the past 20 years. The National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) notes the prolonged lava flow into the ocean causes steam mixed with sulfuric acid to rise into the atmosphere creating a volcanic fog (VOG). The VOG settles over the island resulting in much dryer weather pattern. Fortunately, the VOG resolved in 2018 when the lava stopped flowing into the ocean.

      Other types of coffee are produced throughout the various regions of the Hawaiian Islands. On the Big Island alone, the coffee growing regions of Ka’u, Puna and Hamakua compete for market share with other Hawaiian coffees. The novice coffee drinker or unsuspecting tourist may be under the impression they are purchasing Kona coffee when they bring home coffee beans from other coffee producing regions of Hawaii. To protect the integrity of the “Kona coffee” brand, farmers have had to call for legislation that ensures package labeling is accurate among blended coffees. Only coffee beans grown in the Kona coffee belt can be labeled 100% pure Kona coffee. Any coffee blend must contain a minimum of 10% by weight of the origin named (Kona, Puna, Ka’u), and the label must clearly state the percentage and the size of the font on the label must adhere to specific guidelines (State of Hawaii HB No 1886).

      Over the years, Kona coffee has gained international recognition and a dedicated following. Its exquisite taste is characterized by a smooth body, bright acidity, and a hint of sweetness, making it a delight for coffee lovers worldwide. Kona coffee has received numerous awards, including accolades at the Specialty Coffee Association of America's prestigious Coffee of the Year competition. As the popularity of Kona coffee continues to grow, the future of the industry depends on sustainable practices and preserving the unique characteristics of the region. Farmers in Kona are committed to maintaining environmental stewardship, protecting their natural resources, and ensuring fair trade practices. From its humble beginnings, the coffee industry in Kona has evolved into a global symbol of exceptional quality and taste. The unique combination of ideal climate, volcanic soil, and talented farmers has elevated Kona coffee to a position of unparalleled prestige in the world of specialty coffee. As you sip a cup of Kona coffee, you can now not only savor its remarkable flavor but also appreciate the hard work and dedication behind each bean.